FAQ’s

Why are the tools supplied unhandled?

Putting handles on tools

I prefer to supply my tools unhandled, as different woodworkers favour prefer different styles of handle, most are easily fitted, a rectangular slot can be made in a woodedn handle by drilling a central hole then working the drill bit side to side; epoxy is the best glue to use to secure the blade; when the epoxy has started to harden it can be trimmed with a blunt knife or if the smears are very thin wiped clean with thinners.  I will post a tutorial on fitting handles in the near future. In the mean time if you have any questions or if you would like to comission a fully finished knife then please contact me.

How do I look after my cookware?

Care instructions

Don’t be put off by ironwork in a kitchen, think of a cast iron skillet, copper pans  and carbon steel knifes- all have been the choice of discerning cooks for generations. The black scale formed by is sealed with olive oil to producing a water resistant layer. However being steel it will eventually rust if left damp or immersed for a long period of time. Maintenance is simply a matter of washing and drying the utensil, and then wiping over with kitchen towel moistened with cooking oil for a softly glowing finish. As with copper pans ironwood utensils should not be exposed to acidic foods as this can react with the protective scale over time.

What do you mean by traditionally forged?

Traditionally forged ironwork

The primeval pleasure I get from forging hot metal is as strong now as the day I started. If you have the skill to coax hot steel to shape then it will be quicker than to crudely form or weld the piece and then grind back to shape.

There is a certain confidence apparent in metalwork that has been forged right first time the plastic metal flows in ways that are very hard to imitate with a grinder. Forge welding, the fusing of semi molten pieces of incandescent iron is commonly associated with Japanese samurai swords but can give rise to more organic forms.

Evidence of using traditional forging techniques can show up in very subtle ways. A good example of this is a hole that has been punched out of the red hot metal, only a small proportion of the metal is removed the rest flows to the edges of the hole effectively reinforcing it, this hole can then be enlarged further with a tapered tool know as a drift, maintaining strength long beyond the point were the metal would have fallen apart if simply drilled.You can see that the holes in my rams head hook are punched  however it is also obvious that the holes in the Heart hook are drilled.

In this instance the holes are drilled for exactly the same reason that the hook is firewelded and forged to shape- to give the best possible form, the swelling around punched holes would destroy the shape I have gone to some much trouble to produce.

I don’t think anybody would describe drilling a hole as using untraditional methods, but this criticism is at times levelled at techniques such as electric (arc)  welding. At times I will arc weld my work, such as my Onion candlesticks, there is simply no cost effective way to produce this form with traditional techniques, and although I am a great fan of tradition I don’t want it to limit the scope of my work.

How is your ironwork finished?

Finish

All my ironwork is finished with a clear coat of oil or wax, nothing is hidden under a thick coat of black paint. Ironwork comes out of the forge with a silver grey fire scale on it, this will take on a darker colour when the finish is applied. I tend to use a paste beeswax for larger pieces, boiled linseed oil for smaller hooks and nails, and for cooking utensils olive oil.